Those who follow on instagram will know that over the last few weeks I have become mildly obsessed with making trousers. Not all bad since my trouser collection a few weeks ago consisted of one pair of red M&S trousers that stretch out of shape in about 30mins.
It all started with this attempt at cropped trousers.
I have worn them a few times but they annoy me and are just not right so I bought the Jocole skinny pant pattern as it has a thinner leg:
This pattern has a secret though - a jersey waistband! I thought this would be perfect, comfy but smart.
The pattern says to choose a size by hip measurement so I cut a 12 and made up a muslin. I couldn't get them over my calves... I ripped them apart and sewed them with a smaller seam allowance and they were marginally better but the legs were still tight in funny places and there was masses of extra fabric under the bum.
This got me on google and, after a few false starts, came across this post by Cation Designs. Every possible trouser alteration is here!
Then the pattern hacking began. I decided I needed a full bottom adjustment, knock knees adjustment, large calf adjustment and a reduction in the curve of the front crotch. Phew.
I measured the pattern and compared to my actual measurements then altered it accordingly, it's a wee bit messy now...
I then took the shape of the leg and drafted a proper waist with darts and a side zip so I now have my very own trouser block. Stupidly excited by this...
When I made the first muslin with the alterations I actually danced around the house - it worked and they fitted really well.
So far I have made one pair with a jersey waist and one with a normal waist in stretchy fabric and one with a normal waist in non stretchy.
The spotty fabric is stretchy so I have had to take it in considerably and now have another pattern block for stretchy fabric.
I bought a denim and floral fabric to make another two stretchy pairs, I might attempt to put pockets on the denim pair to make them more like jeans. In fact I might get carried away and make a jeans block with front fly but that might be going too far...
Anyway, I have always wanted to be able to wear trousers that are comfy and fit properly but, as I now realise, my trousers have to be a very odd shape to fit when on....
I didn't realise I was such an odd shape until I started this mission... I just hope mu knock knees aren't this pronounced in real life :)
It all started with this attempt at cropped trousers.
I have worn them a few times but they annoy me and are just not right so I bought the Jocole skinny pant pattern as it has a thinner leg:
 |
| via |
This pattern has a secret though - a jersey waistband! I thought this would be perfect, comfy but smart.
The pattern says to choose a size by hip measurement so I cut a 12 and made up a muslin. I couldn't get them over my calves... I ripped them apart and sewed them with a smaller seam allowance and they were marginally better but the legs were still tight in funny places and there was masses of extra fabric under the bum.
This got me on google and, after a few false starts, came across this post by Cation Designs. Every possible trouser alteration is here!
Then the pattern hacking began. I decided I needed a full bottom adjustment, knock knees adjustment, large calf adjustment and a reduction in the curve of the front crotch. Phew.
I measured the pattern and compared to my actual measurements then altered it accordingly, it's a wee bit messy now...
I then took the shape of the leg and drafted a proper waist with darts and a side zip so I now have my very own trouser block. Stupidly excited by this...
When I made the first muslin with the alterations I actually danced around the house - it worked and they fitted really well.
 |
| Jersey waist |
 |
| Normal waist before being taken in just a wee bit more in the inner thigh. |
 |
| Jersey waist with hip rumpfle that has now been taken in |
 |
| normal waist, stretchy fabric |
 |
| Normal waist non stretchy fabric. |
The spotty fabric is stretchy so I have had to take it in considerably and now have another pattern block for stretchy fabric.
I bought a denim and floral fabric to make another two stretchy pairs, I might attempt to put pockets on the denim pair to make them more like jeans. In fact I might get carried away and make a jeans block with front fly but that might be going too far...
Anyway, I have always wanted to be able to wear trousers that are comfy and fit properly but, as I now realise, my trousers have to be a very odd shape to fit when on....
I didn't realise I was such an odd shape until I started this mission... I just hope mu knock knees aren't this pronounced in real life :)
